Japan: The Land of Platinum Jewellery

Hisako Hankinson

By Hisako Hankinson
President of Platinum Guild International K.K.

Zhenzhen Liu

By Zhenzhen Liu
Director, Global Corporate Marketing, Platinum Guild International

For centuries, Japan was imagined as “Zipangu, the land of gold”, as described by Marco Polo. But today, Japan leads the globe in per capita consumption of platinum jewellery.

Japan’s platinum jewellery industry is among the world’s most mature and influential, built on decades of strong performance, premium market positioning and deep cultural resonance. As the definitive symbol of authenticity and lasting value, the Japanese appreciate its natural white colour, purity and understated luxury. Combined with its durability, rarity and enduring value — regardless of short-term metal price fluctuations — platinum continues to hold a unique and trusted place in Japan’s jewellery market.

While gold accounted for 55% of total jewellery unit sales in 2024 and platinum jewellery represented 28% of unit sales, in terms of retail sales, platinum punches above its weight with an impressive 43% share, highlighting its strong position in the premium segment.

Platinum’s dominance is particularly visible in the bridal jewellery segment, where 92% of engagement rings and 82% of wedding bands were made from platinum last year. These figures underscore platinum’s enduring symbolism of emotional commitment, making it the preferred choice for one of life’s most meaningful milestones.

Platinum is the favourite precious metal among female Japanese consumers

Beyond the bridal segment, the phrase “Good jewellery is platinum jewellery” is a widely recognised sentiment across Japan’s consumers and industry. This is rooted in platinum’s unique ability to securely hold precious gems, enhance their brilliance with its white lustre and endure over time. The data substantiates this widespread recognition: in 2024, 34% of platinum pieces sold were priced above JPY 300,000 (US$2,000), compared to just 16% across the broader jewellery market.

Platinum Has Courted the Japanese for Over a Century

Platinum’s strong roots in Japanese jewellery began in 1891, when Mansaburo Muramatsu became the first in the country to successfully melt the metal – laying the foundation for Japan’s platinum jewellery industry. In 1893, Tokyo jeweller Tenshodo debuted a jewelled platinum clip, launching the first naturally white precious metal that, unlike silver, does not tarnish. Its brilliance and durability redefined luxury, positioning platinum as a modern alternative to traditional metals.

By 1910, Mikimoto’s platinum jewellery had become a status symbol among Japan’s elite, with the Imperial Family commissioning tiaras and state regalia in the metal. Platinum imports were liberalised in 1952 – preceding gold and diamonds – and by the late 1950s, its prestige was cemented nationwide when Crown Princess Michiko wore a platinum tiara during her televised Imperial wedding parade. In 1965, De Beers entered the Japanese market, introducing diamond engagement rings into traditional engagement gift exchanges and solidifying platinum as the preferred setting for diamonds amid rising consumer affluence.

Today, platinum remains central – especially in Japan’s high-end jewellery and bridal markets. Naturally white and resistant to tarnishing, platinum requires no plating and retains its lustre even in Japan’s humid climate and mineral-rich hot springs – making it ideal for qualityconscious consumers. Platinum jewellery continues to ensure hypoallergenic comfort and durability, with pieces frequently passed down as heirlooms.

Image courtesy of Platinum Guild International

Precision as a Signature: Japan's Jewellery Craftsmanship

Japan’s reputation for precision extends into jewellery. Retailers serve as gatekeepers, ensuring each piece meets exacting standards before reaching consumers. This retail-manufacturer partnership upholds Japan’s legacy of refinement and quality.

From hand-assembled artistry to machine-made excellence, platinum jewellery reflects technical mastery. Multifaceted Kihei chains, as illustrated on p19, embody machine precision, while rings, pendants and earrings showcase design restraint and enduring beauty. Whether bold or delicate, or for bridal or daily wear, Japanese platinum jewellery is crafted for a lifetime – mirroring a culture where craftsmanship commands deep respect.

Resilience and Renewal: The Post-Bubble Rebound

The burst of Japan’s economic bubble in the early 1990s triggered a severe financial crisis, leading to prolonged contraction in the jewellery industry. Consumption tax hikes and rising metal prices further strained sales. Yet, platinum retained its prestige – anchored in bridal and high-end jewellery.

The market saw modest growth beginning with 2012’s economic recovery, but it was the COVID-19 pandemic that sparked a revival. Consumers began to reassess jewellery’s emotional significance, driving a surge in online purchases to counter challenges with in-store shopping. With Japan’s market notably driven by selfpurchase, PGI and retailers continued to tailor their messaging directly to female consumers – the primary decision-makers – accelerating recovery through focused outreach.

In parallel, Free Trade Agreements with the EU and UK spurred international brand growth, expanding consumer choice and elevating market sophistication. These shifts in consumer behaviour and evolving market dynamics propelled Japan’s jewellery market into an upward trend from 2021, with its value surpassing JPY 1 trillion (US$7 billion) in 2022, and continuing to grow.

According to Metals Focus, platinum jewellery demand rose 11% year on year to 376Koz (11.7t) in 2024, outperforming gold, which declined by 7%. This momentum has been fuelled by strong consumer affinity, strategic in-store exposure and stock-building – further amplified by the widening price gap between platinum and gold. Looking ahead, the Japanese jewellery market is projected to maintain its growth trajectory in 2025, with platinum poised to play a pivotal role.

Platinum's Growing Dominance Over White Gold

Platinum’s dominance in Japan’s white metal jewellery market has become increasingly pronounced. In 2024, platinum accounted for nearly 30% of total jewellery unit sales, while white gold – typically a palladium-heavy alloy often plated with rhodium – fell below 20%. This trend reflects industry preferences, consumer demand and economic pressures, as escalating gold and rhodium prices – alongside the recovering palladium price – continue to reinforce platinum’s competitive advantage.

New Growth Opportunities for Platinum Jewellery in Japan

Recent findings from PGI Japan’s 2024 Usage & Attitude Survey reveal a striking insight: the single act of acquiring platinum jewellery – whether through gifting or self-purchase – dramatically transforms consumer behaviour and attitudes toward jewellery. Among national samples of consumers aged 16 to 59, those who had acquired non-bridal platinum jewellery within the past three years compared to those who had not, showed:

  • Nearly three times greater interest in precious metal jewellery (83% vs. 30%)
  • Almost double the willingness to spend, with an average acquisition budget of US$1,700 vs. US$900
  • More than five times the likelihood of sharing the appeal and values of jewellery with family and friends (44% vs. 8%).

These findings substantiate PGI’s strategic focus: driving even a single platinum acquisition can unlock deeper consumer engagement, increase spending and foster organic brand advocacy. It’s not just about making a sale – it’s about cultivating loyal platinum consumers.

This data-driven approach opens up powerful new avenues for growth:

  • Younger Women (20 to 34): Often underserved outside bridal, this segment has the highest interest in jewellery and is increasingly investing in selfpurchases. Branded platinum jewellery, such as “Platinum Woman”, tailored to their style and budget preferences, converts interest into lasting affinity and repeat purchases.
  • Unisex and Asset Jewellery: As fashion becomes more fluid and consumers prioritise cost-performance, platinum is gaining traction through unisex styles such as Kihei chains. Priced by metal weight, these pieces offer everyday wearability and serve as wearable assets – blending style with intrinsic value.
  • Occasion-Based Marketing: By aligning platinum’s timeless position in commemorating life’s most significant milestones, PGI continues to foster emotional connections that drive both initial acquisition and repeat purchases.

Japan’s advanced platinum manufacturing and the widening price gap between platinum and gold present a compelling opportunity to convert gold jewellery purchases into platinum. Realising this potential requires sustained, industry-wide collaboration and investment – anchored in powerful storytelling, innovative product development and strategic marketing – to deepen platinum’s emotional resonance with consumers.

As consumers continue to shift from product-driven to experience-driven spending, innovative marketing initiatives that build on Japan’s rich legacy of platinum jewellery offer a powerful opportunity to drive demand.

Hisako Hankinson

By Hisako Hankinson
President of Platinum Guild International K.K.

Hisako Hankinson is President of Platinum Guild International K.K., the Japanese arm of Platinum Guild International Ltd.

She is responsible for growing platinum jewellery demand in Japan, leveraging her deep marketing expertise and industry insight to drive innovative business strategies and consumer programmes – cultivating both current and next-generation platinum consumers.

Zhenzhen Liu

By Zhenzhen Liu
Director, Global Corporate Marketing, Platinum Guild International

Zhenzhen Liu has over 15 years of experience in marketing, sales, consulting and business development across multiple regions. In Platinum Guild International (PGI), she is currently based in Hong Kong and is responsible for its global corporate marketing with institutional stakeholders and media. She also oversees global market research and manages PGI publications such as Platinum Jewellery Business Review.

Prior to joining PGI, she was responsible for platinum group metals sales in Asia Pacific for Anglo American. Zhenzhen started her career in 2008, working for CRU International in London as a market analyst on chemicals and base metals, and later led the consulting business in China, working with commodity MNCs and financial institutions to provide strategic solutions on asset valuation, project financing and market entry.